In the heart of Santa Fe’s Railyard District, hundreds of Native fashion enthusiasts convened from May 8th to 11th for the second annual Native Fashion Week Santa Fe. Of particular note, this year marked a new chapter for Native Fashion Week Santa Fe under the direction of Amber-Dawn Bear Robe (Siksika Nation). After 12 years of cultivating the event from its humble beginnings within the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts (SWAIA), the organization known for its renown Indian Market, Bear Robe branched out to host her own independent event, which ran concurrently with SWAIA’s Native Fashion Week.
In an interview with Santa Fe New Mexican last February, Bear Dawn proclaimed: “I am bringing my vision of fashion week to the Railyard…to put Santa Fe on the map as a fashion city.” Unquestionably, the Railyard’s atmosphere provided the prime setting for the scheduled array of events, which included networking mixers, fashion panels, a vendor market showcasing a diverse range of Native arts and crafts, and a train ride fashion show to kick off the event.
“The region has been a hotbed of Indigenous creativity for millennia,” said Jason Baerg (Métis), a fashion educator and one of the event’s presenting designers. “The area has benefitted from the shared knowledge, mentorship opportunities, and advancement of creative research and academic programs at the Institute of American Indian Arts. Additionally, museums in the area, such as the Museum of Contemporary Indigenous Arts, help situate, validate, and promote Indigenous arts.”
The event’s growing influence was underscored by the attendance of notable industry figures, including Steven Kolb, CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), and designer, Jamie Okuma (Shoshone-Bannock, Wailaki and Okinawan). Okuma holds the distinction of being the first Indigenous designer selected to join the CFDA, a testament to the increasing impact of Native talent on the broader fashion landscape. Notable front row guests included actors Zahn McClarnon, Norman Reedus, Wes Studi, and Gene Brave Rock while Kiowa Gordon and Jessica Matten walked the runways.
With nearly 30 runway shows on the schedule, Native Fashion Week Santa Fe presented a sweeping panorama of Indigenous design. The strength and innovation seen on the runways often lay in the designers’ ability to seamlessly fuse tradition with modernity, frequently coupled with a commitment to slow, sustainable practices. The following designers each offered a unique take on this interplay, creating collections that felt both respectful of heritage while firmly rooted in the present. Their work also hinted at the compelling directions shaping Native fashion today.
Kino Arcentales (Kichwa) of Toronto-based Pacha Indigenous Art Collection showcased a standout collection of women’s and men’s apparel made from cotton-acrylic blend fabric and leather. The designs featured structural jackets, capes, skirts, and ponchos embellished with South American graphics layered in and out of asymmetrical separates. According to Pacha, the black and white colors of the collection represent duality which is rooted in Andean cosmology: “They are opposites that work together.”
For his Ayimach Horizons brand, Métis designer Jason Baerg presented a contemporary collection featuring his signature color blocking and angular shapes in hues of white, yellow, blue, and monochromatic. Tassels in pops of color served as accents and accessories throughout the line. Baerg explained that this collection concludes a four-year exploration of fashion concepts he’s presented at Native Fashion Week Santa Fe. Each year, he’s honored a different element and direction: beginning with Fire/East (yellow) in 2022, followed by Earth/South (red) in 2023, Water/West (blue) in 2024, and culminating now with a tribute to the North (white), Elders, and Traditional Knowledge.
Diné designer Penny Singer presented a collection of wearable art characterized by her signature appliqué and image transfer techniques. The vibrant and fun spirit of her ribbon shirts, graphic vests, and streetwear style that often referenced her Diné culture, including a whimsical nod to the importance of Blue Bird flour – a key ingredient to make delicious Navajo frybread.
Native Fashion Week Santa Fe delivered a diverse range of aesthetics, from punk-inspired to romantic, yet it was the powerful undercurrent of political expression that truly resonated. Moments of resistance and calls for change punctuated the runways, from trans-activist Nonamey’s impactful “Hands Up. Don’t Shoot” jacket to TOC Legend’s crimson gown bearing MMIW references, where a model’s visceral scream served as a poignant commemoration of stolen relatives. Non-binary/trans masc designer Sacrd Thndr’s entire collection centered around the defiant “F**k Trump” slogan, while designer Korina Emmerich offered a striking visual reference with a satin gown evoking the Palestinian flag. These politically charged moments were integral to the show’s captivating power, emphasizing the vital role of fashion as a platform for advocacy and awareness.
The collections presented at Native Fashion Week Santa Fe thoughtfully reflected its tagline, “Not New. Just Next.” The designers drew upon their heritage to create compelling contemporary expressions, demonstrating a clear progression in Indigenous fashion. This energy was palpable in Amber-Dawn Bear Robe’s first year leading NFWSF as an independent organization. In closing the event, Bear Robe aptly stated, “Native fashion has always been here, and it’s only getting louder.” This year’s showcase affirmed that growing visibility and the ongoing push to gain recognition in the lexicon of fashion.
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Editor’s note: Featured image header at the top of this article is a photo by Gabriela Campos
